The two stars are strictly for the pho (noodle soup), which many think is the best in a city studded with pho (pronounced fur) houses. You'll have to stand in line, ambience is nil, and service can be brusque. But that's all part of the charm at this no-nonsense Formica-style restaurant, located in Chinatown in a stone building along a river and marked, without fail, by a queue of Asian diners. The
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